Upside Down
Inspired by fashion icon Iris Apfel and singer David Bowie, aspiring fashion designer Riëlle Magnée constructed her graduation collection ‘Out of the Picture’ based on the irrelevance of gender and age. Some outfits that had been presented by female models at the VIA Design Show in Aarhus, were worn by male models in Copenhagen, and vice versa. “We are living at a time when people shouldn´t be put into boxes anymore. Why could only girls wear pink and only boys wear blue? Why should you dress and behave differently when you´re 90 than when you´re 20?” explains the upcoming designer. “Iris Apfel is a 96-year-old lady who always wears these big, black glasses. She has an amazing style through which she appears as a young and playful character. David Bowie, on the other hand, challenged gender norms by wearing clothes that had a slightly feminine touch. In his day, it was quite interesting how he dressed”, Magnée elaborates on the choice of her muses.
Combining Contradictions
Pink and blue, old and new, printed and plain: ‘Out of the Picture’ is a mixture of contradictions. Magnée created ensembles that were composed of various materials: Faux suede, silk, wool, denim and tulle. While most of the fabrics were new, the designer picked up some of them from secondhand stores. “I like to buy secondhand. Not only do you find more unique pieces but you actually sort of recycle. Moreover, it emphasizes the combination of old with new in my collection”, she says. Another special feature in her designs is that the inside of an outfit looks different from the outside, as she glued together plain with printed fabrics. Some of the pieces can thus be worn on both sides.
The Process of Formation
The young artist had three months to realize her collection. Even though the students were allowed professional help with the actual production of their designs, Magnée decided that she wanted to do it on her own: “This was the final project for my studies, so I wanted to challenge myself. You can´t improve when you don´t even try. I remember the first time I sewed on a machine, the seam went in all directions! Some people might be natural talents, but in general, it´s all about practicing.” In addition, Magnée loves the process of formation. She describes long days and nights at school when she would dive into work, forgetting about time and space. Now that she has gotten her degree, she misses these busy phases.
Finding the Future
When asked about her future career plans, Magnée acknowledges that she needs more experience in the actual business and time for self-exploration. Therefore, she will either participate in a competition or try to find a job. In order to further define her ‘designer DNA’, she will then want to start a more art-related Master´s program. “The only thing I can say is that, until now, my collections have always been colorful and incorporated a certain sense of humor. I´m not a big fan of commercial fashion, I´d rather want to be able to experiment and be artistic through my work. In order to specifically define my trademark, though, I need time”, she says. “And then, one day, I would love to have my own label.”
With her collection, Magnée has created pieces that turn our world upside down. Not only has she challenged the prevalent approach to gender and age, but she has also produced pieces that can literally be worn upside down. She has designed a way for everyone to be free - free in the choice of identity and self-expression, free of socially constructed norms and stigmatizations. Her approach might not be a complete novelty to the fashion industry, but is nonetheless an attempt to further spread its acceptance in society.
Riëlle Magnée (27) was born in the Netherlands where she went to tailoring school before coming to Denmark for studies at the VIA University College. She has recently got a Bachelor´s degree in Fashion Design and is now on the lookout for new inspirations and challenges!